* User Info

 
 
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

* Who's Online

  • Dot Guests: 58
  • Dot Hidden: 0
  • Dot Users: 0

There aren't any users online.

* Recent Topics

clucth cable by druid
[February 08, 2021, 02:04:34 PM]


Sping Setup for CF 1977 Pop Top (Slide Top) by Rich_R
[January 07, 2021, 06:13:08 AM]


Rogue Trooper by greasey monkey
[December 03, 2020, 06:36:00 PM]


Looking for a TK by towman2018
[October 24, 2020, 10:13:01 PM]


engineer certificate by johng
[October 13, 2020, 04:17:14 PM]


Daily Post by outriding
[July 25, 2020, 05:19:57 AM]


CF Workshop Manual by stuuuz
[May 24, 2020, 12:21:25 PM]


Side Door PINS in Hinge (What SIze Are they) CF Bedford SWB1977 by Hobbit
[May 21, 2020, 03:22:38 PM]


Test Gallery Image by wendyh
[April 16, 2020, 09:24:38 PM]


Franky's new LS1 heart transplant by baz
[April 01, 2020, 12:28:28 PM]

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - willo

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10] 11 12
91
Exteriors and Interiors / Re: Leaks & Weatherseals
« on: May 04, 2011, 04:11:12 PM »
Ok so it rained last night, and even after replacing the windscreen seal, i still have a puddle forming in my cabin. On the plus side, i noticed this now before i go putting all the interior back in.
I had the windscreen removed and re-installed by a 3rd party when i got my paint and panel done, so i don't know how he re-installed it, but does anyone know the best way to fix the leaks?
Also, i'm about to put in all new weather seals for all 5 doors, I've been told superglue will damage the seals. Does anyone know the best product to use for this? Thanks
Hi mate,
Gotta agree about the wiper pivots as suggested below.  In relation to the glue, speak with an upholsterer.  They use a 'brush on' contact glue and it sticks really, really well.

Also, you can buy the front door rubbers from "Denny's" in Lismore (and other upholsterers sometimes) in a blank length that you can trim to size.  I bought some from them after I stuffed one of the ones I bought from Rare Spares previously.  Same profile and same rubber and cheaper!!!

Cheers

Neil

92
Miscellaneous Technical / Stromberg Carby Jets and Carby Specs
« on: May 04, 2011, 11:20:26 AM »
Hi all,
this might sound like a silly question but... i cannot for the life of me find a listing of *standard* jet sizes for the 173/202 Stromberg Carby on the net.

I've searched the old holden site etc etc without success

i can find all sorts of numbers that refer to venturi sizes for the different carbys and what one person has *found to run the best* which is always a debatable point anyway.  But, i cannot find a table that shows all the original jet sizes for the various Stromberg carbys so I can establish a baseline with my carby tuning.

I recently put a kit through the carby and found a #65 main jet.  geez, it is big enough to drink a milkshake through!!!  :o I suspect that it might have had an adjustable main jet and someone has only removed the outside bit and left the bigger main jet inside the carby because it is too hard to get at.

has anyone got any suggestions where to look? ???

If this info doesn't exist around the traps what do you reckon if i set up a spreadsheet and people can add their own info so a comparable dataset can be developed.  Chances are that not too many 35 year old Strombergs will have the original jets but by comparing a heap of them we should get a pretty good list to compare sizes (and fuel economy if interested?)

Cheers

Neil


93
Electrics, Audio and Security / Re: What is this?
« on: March 18, 2011, 06:39:02 AM »
It's a common theme for Beddies.  Voltage drops are an absolute pain.  Mine had water leaks in the past and connections got corroded and one thing leads (pun intended) to another.  I'm winning but geez!!!! Lucas electricals ???

94
Electrics, Audio and Security / Re: What is this?
« on: March 17, 2011, 06:30:41 PM »
It's a battery isolator for dual batteries.  Mine had one the same.  Just as rusty too  ;D
More places to introduce voltage drops in the electrics. >:(

Cheers

Neil

95
Electrics, Audio and Security / Re: CF Fuse box wiring question
« on: March 14, 2011, 12:57:17 PM »
hey willo you back up north? how was the ride? apologies for delay regarding the indicaters but been a mite busy, have'nt forgotten you mate just need to pull finger out and get them up to you EM

g'day Eddy.  Back up home mate safe and well.  Had a brilliant trip and played up very nicely ;)

Bike and rider had a ball. 

Thanks for keeping me in the loop mate.  I understand about the ebb and flow of life and how it can get in the way at times.

Cheers

Neil

96
Electrics, Audio and Security / Re: CF Fuse box wiring question
« on: March 14, 2011, 12:52:55 PM »
Gentlemen,
we have found a solution.   Thank you for all your responses.  I went looking and peeled back the tape on parts of the harness and found the problem. :)


Oh, what was the problem? ;D

Well, like most of these things it was more than just one issue.
- Behind the dash there is a 3 way connector for the live 'Brown' wire.  Well, some womble had done a dodgy when fixing up an old short and burnt wiring. :o The brown wire looks like it is supposed to come in and go to the fuse box and the headlight switch.  nope, wire had been cut and joined in elswhere.
- wire from ignition switch had been swapped with another inside the plug inside the schroud.
- wire on back of fuse box had dodgy connection.

Anyway, all is good now and wiring is fixed and fuse box is now AOK and working like it should be. ;D ;D

Thank you one and all

Cheers


Neil

97
Electrics, Audio and Security / CF Fuse box wiring question
« on: March 08, 2011, 07:16:39 PM »
Hi all,
can I ask a silly question please about the fuse box?
I've checked the wiring diagrams and all wires are in the right place but I have problems with some fuses not having power across them but everything works still???  Got brake lights, hazards but the fuses on the right side of the fuse box for these circuits can be totally removed but everything still works.  What the????

I assume that this is not normal.  Even Lucas electricals will use all the fuses surely...

I have two 'constant live' brown wires and ignition powered white/blue wire but that is only powering the light circuit.

Have i got a bridged wire somewhere or is this it normal for half the fuses to have no power?

Cheers

Neil 
 

98
Introduce Yourself / Re: Voltage Stabilizer
« on: February 15, 2011, 07:21:33 AM »
Hi all, I have recently purchased the Yellow LWB CF camper you probably all spotted on Ebay.  Slowly working my way through the electrics and enjoying the learning and reading the forums you have all posted.
I have a few electrical problems.  Behind the dash in the mountain of wires there is no voltage stabilizer, however my fuel gauge and water temp work fine.  What led me to look for the stabilzer was this;
When I start the engine the tacho comes alive and the 'charge' light dimly illuminates, when the heater fan is turned on the tacho dies and the 'charge' light comes fully on.  As with turning on the fan, the indicators cause the tacho to die.  Is this anything to do with the missing voltage stabilizer? or can somebody help with narrowing the focus?

Thanks - Stu
G'day Stu.  Mate, Joseph Lucas (we have LUCAS electricals in CFs)  is indeed the prince of darkness!!!!  Bosch electricals use different connectors and seem to give less voltage drops.  It sounds like you may have voltage drops to the inside of the cab.  Here are my thoughts.
- there is no voltage stabiliser for the fuel and temp gauges.  they are what they are.  Jap cars have a voltage stabiliser so the gauges are 'fed' a set voltage to improve their accuracy.
- The 'bullet' type connections where the harness comes through the firewall can be part of the cause of voltage drop to the inner cab.
- The fuse box connections can be corroded a bit.  Check the rivet under the base of the fuse too.
- Check (and double check) your earths - as already mentioned.  If in doubt, run additional ones.
- You might be losing .25 of a volt through a connector and a bit more through another and it all adds up.

Go out and buy a multitester from someone like Supercheap or Repco.  Then learn how to use it.  You can check for resistance using the ohm setting and volts getting through using the DC volt setting.  Without this you are guessing and looking for a needle in a haystack.

Keep us updated how you get on.

Cheers

Neil

99
Driveline / Re: motor and diff options?
« on: February 01, 2011, 03:22:21 PM »
Yeah I agree about the 250 crossflow falcon motor.
I have seen one fitted and it was a pretty clean fit up from memory.  The advantage of the Falcon 6 is that if you wanted to go shopping into later model stuff you can find a 4 speed auto for it.  This will give you normal gears plus overdrive (well in the gearbox anyway).  The standard sump clears the subframe and when i looked at the conversion I thought that it would be possible to lowere the enging mounts to sit it down and maintain the clearance in the engine cowl.

The old Hemi motors were thirsty but strong so there are pros and cons.  Most of them were 245s and it might be a bit hard to get a reasonable 265.

Once I have been running around for a while in mine that is the combination (250/4.1/3.9 with a 4 speed) that I will be looking for.

Cheers

Neil

100
Wanted / Re: Need a front blinker housing
« on: February 01, 2011, 03:03:37 PM »
Hi mate,
Thank you - Thank you - Thank you.  I am going to run LED bulbs in the original lights but just need the original lights to make it all work.

I'm keen and would gladly buy them and pay freight.  (Pre paid padded postal bag???)
I'm happy to do a transfer $ into your account if you want.
Do you want to PM me to discuss details further?  Or is this getting to be too much of a pain in the...?


Cheers

Neil

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10] 11 12
anything
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2021, SimplePortal