BUGA Community

Hi all,
this might sound like a silly question but... i cannot for the life of me find a listing of *standard* jet sizes for the 173/202 Stromberg Carby on the net.

I've searched the old holden site etc etc without success

i can find all sorts of numbers that refer to venturi sizes for the different carbys and what one person has *found to run the best* which is always a debatable point anyway.  But, i cannot find a table that shows all the original jet sizes for the various Stromberg carbys so I can establish a baseline with my carby tuning.

I recently put a kit through the carby and found a #65 main jet.  geez, it is big enough to drink a milkshake through!!!  I suspect that it might have had an adjustable main jet and someone has only removed the outside bit and left the bigger main jet inside the carby because it is too hard to get at.

has anyone got any suggestions where to look?

If this info doesn't exist around the traps what do you reckon if i set up a spreadsheet and people can add their own info so a comparable dataset can be developed.  Chances are that not too many 35 year old Strombergs will have the original jets but by comparing a heap of them we should get a pretty good list to compare sizes (and fuel economy if interested?)

Cheers

Neil

It's a battery isolator for dual batteries.  Mine had one the same.  Just as rusty too 
More places to introduce voltage drops in the electrics.

Cheers

Neil

Gentlemen,
we have found a solution.   Thank you for all your responses.  I went looking and peeled back the tape on parts of the harness and found the problem.


Oh, what was the problem?

Well, like most of these things it was more than just one issue.
- Behind the dash there is a 3 way connector for the live 'Brown' wire.  Well, some womble had done a dodgy when fixing up an old short and burnt wiring. The brown wire looks like it is supposed to come in and go to the fuse box and the headlight switch.  nope, wire had been cut and joined in elswhere.
- wire from ignition switch had been swapped with another inside the plug inside the schroud.
- wire on back of fuse box had dodgy connection.

Anyway, all is good now and wiring is fixed and fuse box is now AOK and working like it should be.

Thank you one and all

Cheers


Neil

Hi all, I have recently purchased the Yellow LWB CF camper you probably all spotted on Ebay.  Slowly working my way through the electrics and enjoying the learning and reading the forums you have all posted.
I have a few electrical problems.  Behind the dash in the mountain of wires there is no voltage stabilizer, however my fuel gauge and water temp work fine.  What led me to look for the stabilzer was this;
When I start the engine the tacho comes alive and the 'charge' light dimly illuminates, when the heater fan is turned on the tacho dies and the 'charge' light comes fully on.  As with turning on the fan, the indicators cause the tacho to die.  Is this anything to do with the missing voltage stabilizer? or can somebody help with narrowing the focus?

Thanks - Stu

G'day Stu.  Mate, Joseph Lucas (we have LUCAS electricals in CFs)  is indeed the prince of darkness!!!!  Bosch electricals use different connectors and seem to give less voltage drops.  It sounds like you may have voltage drops to the inside of the cab.  Here are my thoughts.
- there is no voltage stabiliser for the fuel and temp gauges.  they are what they are.  Jap cars have a voltage stabiliser so the gauges are 'fed' a set voltage to improve their accuracy.
- The 'bullet' type connections where the harness comes through the firewall can be part of the cause of voltage drop to the inner cab.
- The fuse box connections can be corroded a bit.  Check the rivet under the base of the fuse too.
- Check (and double check) your earths - as already mentioned.  If in doubt, run additional ones.
- You might be losing .25 of a volt through a connector and a bit more through another and it all adds up.

Go out and buy a multitester from someone like Supercheap or Repco.  Then learn how to use it.  You can check for resistance using the ohm setting and volts getting through using the DC volt setting.  Without this you are guessing and looking for a needle in a haystack.

Keep us updated how you get on.

Cheers

Neil

Hi mate,
Thank you - Thank you - Thank you.  I am going to run LED bulbs in the original lights but just need the original lights to make it all work.

I'm keen and would gladly buy them and pay freight.  (Pre paid padded postal bag???)
I'm happy to do a transfer $ into your account if you want.
Do you want to PM me to discuss details further?  Or is this getting to be too much of a pain in the...?


Cheers

Neil