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Messages - willo

Pages: 1 ... 9 10 [11] 12
Wanted / Re: Need a front blinker housing
« on: January 29, 2011, 06:09:47 AM »
G'day Warren,
thanks for repying mate.  Good advice.  I've seen a couple of Beddys with the Hella lights and I may end up going that way in the end.  I've got one perfect original blinker and I've already fitted it to the camper so I'd like to keep the original ones if possible.  One down and one to go.
Someone might have one in their shed that they are wiling to part with.

I'm starting to get a bit excited coz it is driving up and down the driveway under it's own power for the first time in 10 years. (long story-it followed me home in 1998 and I was allowed to keep it ;-}}}



Wanted / Need a front blinker housing
« on: January 28, 2011, 07:41:02 PM »
Hi all,
would anyone have a front blinker that they want to sell?  I've got a lense if you want to hang on to that part but the chrome back is RS.  I lost one of the brass ferrules that you screw the lense into and I thought that was all.  I went back and got it out to fit it today and when I looked closely the whole thing needs replacing.
I'm in Lismore NSW.

Any help is greatly appreciated.



Maintenance / Re: where to get parts?
« on: October 27, 2010, 05:48:55 PM »
your better off to source brake parts new rather than second hand.

bedfords never came out with swaybars but there are some after market ones available. i have one here if your interested pm me. power steering is only possible if you know someone willing to do some custom work to modify mounting brackets and bits and pieces to fit a rack from a different vehicle.. best off to search for that on this site there is quite some discussion about it in different threads.

I had to get new rear handbrake cables for my LWB CF and I was lost as to where to buy them.  The answer was simple really.  I went to my local clutch rebuilding company and he makes them from your sample.  I never thought of it before but he uses the same principle as when he makes clutch cables.

Anyhow If you need new handbrake cables or clutch cable contact Wright's Clutch Service in Lismore, NSW He does great work.



Maintenance / Re: Hanging and adjusting front doors
« on: October 26, 2010, 10:36:57 AM »

You could be on the money with a bent hinge - my RH side had too much slop so I changed it out for one from a donor van - no problems. Have you tried adjusting the striker plate?



Hi guys,
Thanks for the feedback and letting me know that I'm not the only one with these headaches.  I know the old door was not filed, ground or anything as i still have it in the shed.  (Well the top half of it anyway coz the bottom 12" of the doors was rusted away).
The bottom of the door (AKA bottom hinge) is too far forward and I can't get any more adjustment to get it back and still the door is too low for the lowest adjustment on the door catch.
Like I said previously, i can't feel any slop in the hinge bushes but this is just a total pain in the ...
I reckon it is a hinge thing and not a door thing so I might just go and watch a movie and relaaax a bit before I spit the dummy and do something to the door that I'll regret. ;)

(Wot, me impatient ;D)



Maintenance / Hanging and adjusting front doors
« on: October 25, 2010, 03:54:17 PM »
Hi guys,
I'm putting my front doors back on and am cursing the RH one.  The doors and the hinges are all mix and match from many different vehicles.  Nothing came from the original vehicle which makes it all fun to fit together with the right gaps.  :(

There is no movement in the hinge bushes that i can feel but I am struggling to get the right clearences on the RH one.
I'm beginning to wonder if the RH lower hinge (not the body as it all looks fine)  has had a hit at sometime in it's life and it is slightly bent.  It looks a bit like a question mark (?) so I am wondering if the round bit in the question mark may be a bit smaller than normal (if that makes sense to you) ???  The problem is that I can't get the bottom back far and up enough

My question is around how hard are these to get right?  What sort of 'solutions' do all of you use to get your clearances right on these &*%$#@ doors?



Maintenance / Re: Window regulator..
« on: October 10, 2010, 05:53:22 PM »
agreed:) i hate putting windows in and out and fiddling with regulators!
A mate was telling me about an aftermarket universal electric window conversion that might fit.  He didn't have any details but a lot of the rodders and restorers use them.
(A bit like the universal electric self locking kits that Supercheap autos sell I guess)

Has anyone fitted these kits?


Driveline / Re: Bedford Fuel Tanks.
« on: August 20, 2010, 04:17:33 PM »
Hey Neil, what size tank did you get made ?

Umm, about that wide by this square...  Sorry, don't know the exact details.  It is about 900ml long, 350 high and 650 wide.  I had a space that needed filling so i filled it.   ;)

The old tank was a manufactured tank too and this one is the same dimensions but about another 200ml longer because i took the black water holding tank out and had more space (Couldn't see the point in carrying all that around with me all the time ;D)

Hadn't though about engineering the tank before. The old one was as weak as ... and this one is much stronger.  Ah well, probably have to jump that one when i get it registered.  I was expecting that I would need to get the whole camper engineered before rego even though it is a factory job.  They tend to get a bit nervous these days


Driveline / Re: Bedford Fuel Tanks.
« on: August 18, 2010, 03:50:29 PM »
$550 Aus mate.  I was going to do the whole "flush it" "wet it" and "Kream it" to stop the leaks and subsequent internal rust from filling full of water but it all got too big with bits of "stuff" falling off everywhere inside the tank"  Rust and old Kream treatment do not go well together >:(  In short, the old tank was RS and i decided to go down the whole new tank route.  Went to all teh wreckers around and could not find anything that fitted neatly.  I could have got a rough old steel one that i would have still have had to modify the mounts and pipes etc for $150 and then deal with whatever was floating around inside it too.  It's a lot of money but it won't rust or fill up with rubbish and it is one less thing to worry about when i am in the middle of Australia someday. 


Driveline / F&R shock part numbers/options please
« on: August 18, 2010, 10:41:12 AM »
Hi all,
I am at the stage of fitting new shocks all round to my LWB Cab/Chassis camper and went to my local Repco and local parts shop asking about options.
They could not find a 1975 Bedford in their shock supplier books  ???  They offered to ring up and check numbers etc and see what they could find out so a solution was at hand :)
However, I am wondering what everyone else is doing for new shocks.  Given that I have a double bed over the cab and a heap of cladding and steel in the high caravan type body i want something pretty solid to stop as much body sway as I can.

The front shocks look like normal Holden front shocks to me.  Is that correct?  I'm not sure of the shock length though.
The back ones appear fairly normal with an eye on each end.

Does anyone have any suggestions of brands etc and if so, what part numbers are they?

Thanks in advance


Driveline / Re: Bedford Fuel Tanks.
« on: August 18, 2010, 10:31:25 AM »
no photos as yet but I am gettin a local fabrication shop to manufacture my new tank for the camper (LWB Cab/Chassis type) to replace the rusted out one.  It will be made out of thick alluminium plate with baffles inside etc and fit in the original place for a Cab/Chassis fuel tank (behind the RH side of the cab).  I have been able to get it made longer for more capacity but not wider due to the overhanging body and chassis rail on the inside.  When i get it made i will post some photos.

In relation to the fuel hose question, i decided to go to 2" silicon hose to join the filler to the tank.  These hoses are used on turbo applications and are OK with ethanol and fairly cheap to buy from eBay.  Original was rubber and it had gone as hard as the proverbial.  A recipe for fumes and leaks IMHO.



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