* User Info

Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

* Who's Online

  • Dot Guests: 24
  • Dot Hidden: 0
  • Dot Users: 0

There aren't any users online.

* Recent Topics

clucth cable by druid
[February 08, 2021, 02:04:34 PM]

Sping Setup for CF 1977 Pop Top (Slide Top) by Rich_R
[January 07, 2021, 06:13:08 AM]

Rogue Trooper by greasey monkey
[December 03, 2020, 06:36:00 PM]

Looking for a TK by towman2018
[October 24, 2020, 10:13:01 PM]

engineer certificate by johng
[October 13, 2020, 04:17:14 PM]

Daily Post by outriding
[July 25, 2020, 05:19:57 AM]

CF Workshop Manual by stuuuz
[May 24, 2020, 12:21:25 PM]

Side Door PINS in Hinge (What SIze Are they) CF Bedford SWB1977 by Hobbit
[May 21, 2020, 03:22:38 PM]

Test Gallery Image by wendyh
[April 16, 2020, 09:24:38 PM]

Franky's new LS1 heart transplant by baz
[April 01, 2020, 12:28:28 PM]

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - willo

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 12
Hi guys im after a few small things.. Ive tried don kyats, and jo from dandenong with no luck so far... What im after are the following

Break wheel cylinder x 2 rear
engine mount
clutch cable
accelarator cable
break lines
spigot bearing bush (crank end for a supra)
mount for a supra...
Hi mate,
there is a guy in Lismore, NSW who makes new handbrake or clutch cables from a sample. Look up Wright's Clutch Service.  He has all the various ends and knobs and cables and ferrels etc and just needs the sample to get it all spot on for you.
I've used him a couple of times and been happy with his service and price.
and importantly, he isn't related to me nor do I have any interest in the place. 

Driveline / Re: Steering boots
« on: March 06, 2014, 05:09:55 PM »
Will these boots fit my beddy?
If not , what should I be looking for ?
Cheers, Bob.

Hi Bob, standard Torana ones fit.  Take what is left of your old one into your local Repco etc and they should be the same.  Don't forget that you only need a tiny amount of oil in them or it will pressurise the boots and shorten their life heaps.



CF Bedford Chat / Re: Scary stories of your first beddie drive
« on: December 18, 2013, 07:01:58 PM »
mine came home on the back of a tilt tray.  bought it from a deceased estate and it hadn't run for 6 years.  Had to winch it onto tray top. It was that long that the back wheels were slightly hanging off the back of the tray and passed the RTA roadside inspectors on the way into town.  Luckilly, not pulled in. Towie stopped at the servo for me and pumped up the square tyres. Pulled up in front of my place and used the winch to stop it running away down the hill.  Still with no brakes we ran out of rope so I aimed for the kerb backwards with a 1% handbrake and park in the auto in an emergency.  Got it there safe and well and there it sat till I bled the brakes and got a bit of a pedal and got the thing running to get it in the yard.
Lotsa fun.  Many repairs (and years) later it is on the road and wouldn't be without the motorhome.


CF Bedford Chat / Re: holden traumatic...
« on: December 03, 2013, 06:55:22 PM »
thanks for your input guys....  kinda thought an adapter plate would be needed.... its more  the crossmember  lining up n stuff like tailshaft lengths , imagine i would have to change  yoke which isnt hard ... ( famous last words!! ).  ;D  ... whats th go with your 700 willo??     
I bought it to fit behind the inline 6.  Came out of a running VP V6.  Looks to have a record torque converter as it is that pretty green/blue colour that they paint them when they reco them. Never got around to trying it out though

Am open to offers as I am just tripping over it and I am just over it  :D :D
Will swap for beddie bits (or a carton) whatever takes your fancy. ::)
PM me and we'll talk but cannot ship as too big  ;D

The V6 gearbox fitted up to the original mount Trimatic and beddie cross member if that's any help


CF Bedford Chat / Re: holden traumatic...
« on: November 27, 2013, 07:04:07 PM »
i knew that!!..   ::)  ::)  ::)  ;D  ;D thanks guys know of any particular ones that go straight in or do i have to go an adapter plate ?? cheers

mate, you need an adaptor plate.  Only problem is that a T700 behind the inline 6 still means that you have to cut the floor to fit it. 
I've got a spare in T700 in the shed if anyone wants it.


Driveline / Re: Noisy gears
« on: November 06, 2013, 01:16:37 PM »
Took the `ol dear for a run on the w`end and all went well except for the gearbox  :( .
It`s a 3 speed and is quite noisy in 1st & 2nd but fine in top . The noise is bad on acceleration but quietens down when not under load .
Is a rebuild kit going to fix my prob ( bearings , etc ) or could it be gears themselves?
I`m thinking if it,s going to cost a small fortune to repair I should maybe get a 4 speed.
Is replacing the 3 with a 4 a straight forward swap ?  What about the shift linkage , etc .
What model vehicle should I be looking for to get a compatible 4sp box that will fit in without too much drama?
Cheers, Bob.

Hi Bob, noisy first and second in a 3 speed is front gearbox bearing.
A gearbox bearing kit fixes it and those old 3 speeds can be done without special tools.

problem with going to a 4 speed is that fourth is still 1:1 so all you do is add a middle gear in the range without reducing final revs.
I like a 5 speed as it does everything that a 4 speed does plus you get a better cruise with less revs.


CF Bedford Chat / Re: Overheating Radiator
« on: November 05, 2013, 10:37:37 AM »
You are welcome to disagree. But I'm still right!

I've studied thermodynamics and have many examples in domestic and racing practice where I've seen this to be true.

These are two examples:
I own a 1930's vintage car. Cooling system is perfect except it runs hot all the time and I cant get the correct thermostat for it. I removed the thermostat and it over heated again but only on highway driving. I made a metal disc with a 25mm hole in it and placed it where the thermostat should be as a starting point to give me some idea if I needed more or less flow. Of course it was slow to warm up without a thermostat but amazingly, it does not overheat and sits right around where it is supposed to be. I have left the disc in place with no dramas since.

I have been crewing for a V8 speedway team for a number of years. We decided to change the power steering set up, in doing this we had to change the pulley sizes and therefore ratios. First heat out we had overheating problems. Realising the coolant was flowing a lot faster because the waterpump was now spinning a lot faster too.  With no way to change the pulleys, we changed out final drive ratios (thank God for quick change diffs) reducing the engine RPM (and sacrificing HP) and the car finished the night OK. Back in the workshop, we re-did the pulley set up bringing the waterpump speed back nearer original and have had no issues since. You must appreciate that these race engines are working harder than normal and cooling is marginal at the best of times. So it appears Beddy cooling systems are not so different.

Anyway, again, for what it is worth.

Yep, I agree with what you are saying.
the issue with removing the thermostat is that the water moves much faster and much sooner as the engine warms up of a morning but importantly, it goes quickly around the front of the motor only and the back of the motor has minimal circulation. thus, the back of the motor will run hotter and lead to overheating.
Similarly with the pulley ratios.  it pushes all the water around the front of the motor at a faster rate and not letting the air flow through the radiator do its work. 
It really comes back to the interaction between the water flowing at the right volume aka thermostat/restrictor in place with no blockages and correct water pump ratio and the airflow through the radiator aka no blockages and the radiator surface area is sufficient to cool the volume of water passing through it. 
It is a science and it all has to work together in unison.



Electrics, Audio and Security / Re: Alternater light
« on: November 04, 2013, 06:23:36 PM »
Hi I was wondering, Can I get any type of pilot light for my Alternater dash light or does it have to be a certain type. Thanx Pete

G'day Pete,
An alternator light needs to have some resistance to excite the charge circuit.
So, the answer is yes, any pilot light will work.  BUT (always a but isn't there  ;))
if you use an LED light you will need to wire in a resistor as LED lights have very little resistance.


Miscellaneous Technical / Re: silly question?
« on: October 31, 2013, 02:42:39 PM »
There must be somebody in Australia who could copy these? and then we could all put a bulk order in for 1 or 2 hundred, might get the price down to $10 each

I need 2 now and I'll take another 4 for spares please.

I just went to the Rare Spares website and they have a "contact us" option for something you'd like to see made.
I copied the part number from the english website and sent them an enquiry.

Give it a go and if we all send in a request then we might get lucky...


Miscellaneous Technical / Re: silly question?
« on: October 30, 2013, 06:04:47 PM »
Well my beddy must be a limited edition, it had skateboard wheels stored in the footwell pocket, didn't know what they were for until I was scrambling around one day.... :D
oh well, the search continues! ::)
cheers for the responses & pic!
I thought I'd invented something new but apparently not.
I carry two pieces of wood beside my seats for the doors. 
Learn something every day.
Must be a case of great minds eh?


Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 12
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2021, SimplePortal