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Messages - Rocket
1
« on: August 04, 2016, 06:57:47 PM »
I have enough room to fit my size 13 shoes between my engine cover & steering column because I fitted a 350 chev. Chev has a different shape head and thus is about 3cm narrower each side. Besides Chev parts are cheaper to buy.
2
« on: May 15, 2016, 08:36:34 PM »
20 years ago my van was hit by another vehicle & it wrecked the suspension on one side. When I went looking for wishbones at the wreckers I found nearly every upper wishbone had cracks in them & they all had rubber bushes in them. After that I put nolathane bushes in mine & have done 450,000km since & I only have cracks in my upper left one which I am now in the throws of replacing with a reinforced one.
3
« on: November 27, 2014, 06:23:12 PM »
I originally had a 179hp block running all X2 running gear in my Bedford but couldn't tow a horse float with it above 80kmh and still maintain reliability. Upgraded to a 290hp 350chev with T700 transmission & 9"diff. but after 460,000km it has now got to be retired. Have just ordered a 330hp 350chev---the only way to go. Cost a lot of money to fit the 350 but I would not have it any other way now (doesn't slow down on hills & can just about tow anything also economy when not towing the same as the holden 6 engine).
4
« on: April 30, 2014, 05:16:10 PM »
I have a set of jelly bean wheels for sale in HQ stud pattern. Complete with roadworthy tyres. 14x6 front & 14x7 rears. 205/70 front(near new) & I think 225/65 rear(still roadworthy). Looking for $400.00 for the lot. ----front tyres alone cost me near $400.00
Rocket.
5
« on: January 06, 2012, 09:07:29 AM »
Rod
Sale
6
« on: October 06, 2011, 07:32:13 AM »
I have had several different things causing vibration at speed. Out of balance front wheels. Universal joints chewing out. Worn tie rod ends. The trickiest was worn lower ball joints----replaced the one that was obviously faulty but also had to replace the other that felt perfect.
7
« on: September 30, 2011, 08:06:36 AM »
The original idea behind the ballast resistor was to drop the voltage to about 9volts at the coil when the motor was running (because they were using 9volt coils). But the the ballast resistor was bypassed when cranking the motor over to start so as to get the full voltage at the coil. (this was usually about 10.5 to 11volts because the battery would typically drop to this while the motor was cranking). By doing this it gave a stronger spark to aid starting.
I hope this helps you?
8
« on: April 04, 2011, 11:34:58 AM »
I am running 235/65/14 on the rear. I am old school referring that the ratio of 2.75 is to tall & 3.5 is about perfect. I get around 650km on trips to 150 liters of LPG with the van tipping the scales at about2.4 tonne . Around 525km about town.
9
« on: April 04, 2011, 08:16:12 AM »
When I first put a 350 Chev in my van I installed a 2.75 ratio diff. with a T350 tranny (broke it) so installed a beefed up t700. When cruising with lockup engaged I found there was no difference in economy between 3rd & 4th gear (diff to tall). After much chatting with people in the know I went to a 3.5 ratio diff. This gave me a taller top gear than the 2.75 T350 combo & a better spread of ratios overall. I now have the same economy (2100 rpm at 100kph). Gets off the line much better & is fantastic for towing because I can go back to 3rd (direct) for towing up hills & I also lock & unlock the torque converter at will. I think any ratio that is taller will be to tall for the little 283 when in 4th. It was certainly to tall for my 350 when I had 7 adults on board.
10
« on: October 20, 2010, 06:56:36 AM »
In reverse the load switches from one engine mount to the other. I know this for certain because up to date I have broken 6 mounts (to much throttle --350 chev). My motor tried to climb out of the engine bay when the one affecting reverse broke.
Rocket
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