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for sale by downhill
[January 14, 2019, 09:28:12 AM]


For Sale - One Piece Fiberglass Rear Door for CF Van by disco
[January 11, 2019, 02:24:01 PM]


roadworthy items by downhill
[January 09, 2019, 08:52:32 AM]


Bedford cf parts by downhill
[January 03, 2019, 10:29:44 AM]


Daily Post by wendyh
[December 31, 2018, 03:48:35 PM]


Franky's new LS1 heart transplant by baz
[December 29, 2018, 10:19:23 AM]


Transit Power Steering Rack by baz
[December 22, 2018, 11:24:02 AM]


Who is turning 50? by baz
[December 02, 2018, 07:42:52 PM]


engine mounts holden 186 sump touching cross bar by Drew
[November 29, 2018, 12:25:43 PM]


Duell diff by Rogerfied
[November 26, 2018, 01:17:32 AM]

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Messages - downhill

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6
1
For Sale / for sale
« on: January 14, 2019, 09:28:12 AM »
Have to sell my Bedford Vauxhall Camper, $8000, when I get some photos up, that seems to be harder to do than it should be, craig@hobbyhoist.com.au Redcliffe. So check the photos on the last page of gallery. I saved this from being picked to death whilst working in Nelson NZ, got it thru a warrant of fitness, drove it a bit then imported it. So standard, I ve not robbed anything off it. Checked out the price of Kombis? This can be modded to a Holden 6, or 253, why would you buy a Kombi? Big water tank underneath, 4 rear shocks. Will post under body when I get the chance to hoist it, at Hobby Hoist DIY workspace, in Redcliffe. Has extensive work history, I ve done brakes right through, master and wheel cylinders. The wheels are odd, had to give back the Jelly Bean mags, actually has two wheels I will use on the Jumbo once its registered, from a set of 4. Also you can pick from all the Beddy stuff I have, all free with the sale. I found old brochures on the UK site from the seventies, become the quintessential anglophile tourer with waders, trout rod and butterfly net! LOL. A good home please, this old survivor does not deserve to be spared out. Auto Sleepers was started in about 1961, this is a factory job, not some bodies weekend knock up. the cabinet work is great, lots of internal storage spaces, in its day, was a 4 seater. Will research the factory more to see if I can authenticate its birthday. Enjoy some class classic camping. Downhill.

2
BUGA site information / Re: roadworthy items
« on: January 09, 2019, 08:52:32 AM »
Hi Beddites, after a preliminary inspection for roadworthy, Im happy with progress. Two items that require parts, door check springs, holding doors open is a requirement, also must have a demister fan working. Any one with these parts spare? Was given a price of $500 for a fan and heater, could probably rebuild one for that cost. Any one gone around this with a different fan set up? Didn't snag pedal rubbers, was more interested in seeing full perimeter weld on all patches, time for another weld process. A keen body worker I met at a show here, Beddy owner too, does gas and solder work for those troublesome areas, then a good sand back. Can work better than MIG which can blow out when it contacts a bad patch. Tack in with MIG, fill in with the gas and solder. Can only improve my skills I guess.


Keep pushing uphill to get the downhill thrill!

3
Wanted / Re: Bedford cf parts
« on: January 03, 2019, 10:29:44 AM »
Yes the camper single fold back seats not for a serious nights sleep. Love the Slider in the museum, I wonder if it would be possible to find the list of body numbers bought by APost, to see if it matches a plate, particularly one seaters. Tax payers money long since spent.

       downhill.

4
BUGA site information / Re: roadworthy items
« on: January 03, 2019, 10:13:21 AM »
Thanks Stuuuz, let us know how they fit, set of two, for manual, nothing on the accelerator?
 downhill.

5
Wanted / Re: Bedford cf parts
« on: December 13, 2018, 07:10:41 PM »
Hi Bugas, just to jump on the thread about seats, Volvo, (iced vovos) seats where what my slider had when I bought it, damn heavy, probably fitted before engineering was required, or just done anyway. My standard seat for the 280 was recovered with new foam also, cost, $450. But I m all for stock standard on at least one project! My Auto Sleepers camper seats fold flat to make two single beds in the front, no I havent tried to sleep in it yet! And a close look at the build plate on the slider, only one seat fitted, a real working van. A seat story for your interest.

6
BUGA site information / roadworthy items
« on: December 13, 2018, 06:45:43 PM »
Hi All , getting my jumbo up to roadworthy standard, any one got a lead on pedal rubbers? Im finding its a challenge to just build a standard machine up to scratch, its the little things that can hold up a roadworthy. In my workshop I have a two post 4T hoist, any Brisbane Bugas welcome to come around and check out my clan, CF 280 with Holden 6 & Trimatic, Vauxhall Camper built by AutoSleepers Britian, shipped from NZ, & my fave is the Sliding Door with a 302 Clevo, C4 'box & slippery diff. E-mail craig@hobbyhoist.com.au , Hobby Hoist, open all hours, I live upstairs. Quietly restoring Beddys!

7
Driveline / Standard front ends
« on: February 07, 2016, 06:12:33 PM »
Hello standard owners, my front end re-do is moving forward slowly, just noting a couple of things. Out of 6 upper wishbones I have, 1is good, 1is rusted probably will crack in service, 2 have weld repairs in 2places each. The cracks are close to the pivot point, clean them well and check.The others are cracked need repair. The Nolathane bushes work different to standard in how they pivot on the crush tube, the old standard type are bonded to the crush tube and pivot on the outer of the bush, the crush tube is serrated to hold still when tightened. Consider this when tightening the bolts on the Nolathane. You don't want the bolts to rotate or the chance is they will loosen. The standard crush tube uses the serrations to lock it. I am trying a spring washer under the large washer, it fits it the new tube against the end of the shaft so you tighten onto the shaft, not the flange of the bush, which rotates as the wishbone moves. The lube is put between the crush tube and the bush inner, as per their instructions, and on the inner face of the bush flange. So, the difference is standard rotates on the outer of the bush, the Nolathane on the inside of the bush. The top plates need attention, rust and deteriorated rubber plates under them. This one bolt and two studs hold the front end to the body, I will need to make and weld on new lock plates to secure the bolt after tightening.  24mm socket, 1/2drive bar with a jack handle extension got mine out. I have been lucky to have two rubber plates good enough to use again. Also have found cracking on these plates. Going with the standard rebuild can be a problem with parts, but changing the front end from standard sounds like more of a challenge! Be careful when pressing, alignment is critical, as is what you push on, support the end of the shaft when pressing on the Nolathane kit crush tube, yes, I was out a fraction, have distorted the tube, managed to see it in time to get it out again, I won't try the tube again, another kit, if it jams up going on, it's a world of pain! The standard ones fought me getting them off! Hope this helps the "restorers" out there, you transplant guys are very keen!

Still pushing uphill! Thanks for watching!

8
Exteriors and Interiors / Re: Door compatability?
« on: February 06, 2016, 09:45:48 AM »
Bedford Betty, yes out of the loop, me too. The van is now in Oz, and I have what I need to engine it, thanks. Am sprucing up a front end and standard holden for the jumbo, the Vauxhall camper is not yet rego'd here, but gets run regularly, hoping to get a few miles out of the slant four yet. Thanks.

9
Wanted / Re: Front end bushes
« on: December 06, 2015, 04:04:08 PM »
Hi Gazz, sorry for late reply, got the Nolathane thru Repco.

10
Wanted / Re: Front end bushes
« on: November 14, 2015, 10:55:17 AM »
Thanks all replies,  here's how I got them, with the lower wishbones off, see what actually still moves. One side was seized the other, the rubber was rotating in the the shell housing. Lessen the hold by drilling out some rubber if it's a total seize, use a penetrate, I like Inox, useful for a lot of stuff, then from the inside of the wishbone I used a small metal chisel, find the metal bush & start to burr it up to get a face to push on, as it moves you will see a gap between the "dog bone" shaft end & the bush. Then I changed tools between a punch & the chisel, working around the bush, use more penetrate if it's bad & leave to dwell some time has worked ok too. Hammer it off the shaft. On one bush I started on the outside, opened it out and tried to split it some way down, once the rubber was removed, with the chisel, to relieve the grip & allow penetrate to work. Less area to push when you start from the inside. On both wishbones, one was a challenge, the other came out with its hands up! in about ten minutes! Things to watch, drills are brittle, use care when drilling rubber & don't be tempted to flex the drill bit when your deep in the rubber. Most damage can be blended out of the "dog bone" shaft, no it does not come out, it's a clever factory instal at build up. Even the Nolathane kit tells you not to remove the shell. My battery drill worked hard & ran the batteries down quickly, the rudder is a load as it keeps wanting to hold the bit. Also I found Nolathane spring pads, measure up your spring to get it right,a Type 9 they call it , will also go the shockie bushes, and looks like the shocks are shagged too!

Now the top wish bone long bolt Thur the spring tower! Crow call! Thru! My sliding door V8 has been done also it has had the support arms bushes in a Nolathane, red material, the ones that go to the chassis. I didn't do that, bought it like that. So, the Jumbo, I've tried penetrate for weeks, hammer shocks, won't budge. Frustrating coz it's holding up the job. May have to get pro help here, good idea with the bottle jack reply, have been looking at how I can set that up to push, holding pressure and heat works but I'm short on big job tooling. Last resort before that may be sledge hammer, on the ground, blocked up and slammed. So I'm doing this coz the front end I got with Jumbo had been modded years ago for an Isuzu diesel, now I have a red & trimatic that came on a front end from a nice cream van, save cutting and welding I thought of the modded front, needed to get mounts anyway. My collection is, V8 sliding door RATVAN , Vauxhall engined Auto Sleeper, British, & Jumbo, getting a red fitted.

Hope this helps those considering this job, I'll post more later, prolly should be in another section? Tech Tips?

Gotta push uphill, to get the downhill thrill!

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