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Topics - aussieneil

Pages: [1] 2
Maintenance / Extractors for 6 cylinder
« on: February 29, 2016, 11:52:09 AM »
After cracking two cast iron exhaust manifolds, I'm considering going down the extractor path. Obviously standard Holden 6 extractors will fit the engine, but do they have a suitable exit angle and location for bolting into a CF? Any experiences or wisdom will be much appreciated!

CF Bedford Chat / CA Bedford (1963) - does anyone know this Beddy?
« on: November 17, 2015, 09:38:20 PM »
Despite being a CF Bedford tragic, I've also long had a soft spot for the CA. Does anyone know this CA based up on the Gold Coast? I'm seriously considering adding a CA to the garage...

Mine suddenly gave up the ghost on the weekend. Any leads?



Exteriors and Interiors / Seat covers for original front buckets
« on: November 01, 2015, 10:15:48 AM »
The time has finally come for the custom sheepskin covers that were fitted to the original front seats in Dolph, our much-loved camper, to be retired. These were fitted by the original owners who obviously had them custom made many years ago. Dolph can be seen at www.grouseguitars.com/dolph

The original seats are still almost pristine underneath, but for the long trips we do we don't think vinyl will provide the comfort the sheepskins have provided in hot and cold conditions.

Does anyone know where suitable covers for the very small original front seats on a CF can be purchased?

Driveline / shifter position with Supra box - any adapters?
« on: November 13, 2014, 10:44:40 AM »
Hi all,

I've just searched the forum but can't find a specific answer to this question.

Is there a way to install a Toyota W58 5-speed box without butchering the floor and having a drastically rear set shifter? I was just about to purchase a box when I realised the standard floor panel couldn't be used, and that I'd lose the walk through facility of my campervan (www.grouseguitars.com.au/dolph)

So it looks like I stay with the Trimatic.

Or is there a way to modify the box so a usable shifter can be roughly in the standard CF position, just behind the engine cover and offset towards the driver?

Any enlightenment will be much appreciated! And congrats on the updated website.


Driveline / King Springs vs Dobinson front coils - any comments?
« on: September 11, 2014, 08:20:31 PM »
Hi all,

Just back from another 4000km trip in the Dolphin camper. All running like a dream!

Just one thing niggles me now. Under some conditions, more often than I'd like, the front springs bottom out. A hate to think the forces acting on the wishbone, subframe and ball joints when this happens.

I've previously fitted heavy duty shock absorbers, and the vehicle sits at the correct height, indicating that the springs have not sagged.

On eBay, sellers are offering Dobinson and King Springs heavy-duty standard-height springs for $175 including delivery, which seems pretty good to me. Any comments from anyone who has experience with either of these brands? I only want to do this job once!



Campers / Our Bedford Dolphin camper does Bay to Birdwood again
« on: October 10, 2013, 04:56:45 PM »
We've just spent a lovely 8 days taking scenic backroads and culminating in taking part in the 2013 Bay to Birdwood Classic. We got the bug two years ago when attending the previous Bay to Birdwood Classic in the camper before I undertook a big restoration.

A pic of the Beddy is on the ABC website here, and another good pic at the start is this one by Awesome Photography.

The trip also led to some fine-tuning of the cooling system, which is documented here.

Happy Bedford camping!


PS; feel free to look at the many photos and links to the before and during restoration phases of this Bedford camper here.

Maintenance / Keeping Kool
« on: October 10, 2013, 04:35:19 PM »
After fitting a specially-built (for LPG) high-compression 202 into my camper the existing 3-core radiator was keeping up, but only just.

I spent a fortune ($600) getting a new radiator made up using standard top and bottom tanks and side brackets, but then found to my alarm that the core was so thick I couldn't fit it in due to the engine-driven fan. After some careful measurement and making up cardboard mockups I determined I could just fit a pair of Davies Craig 9" fans, but calculations showed they probably wouldn't keep up under the worst conditions, such as a long, slow climb on a hot day.

The fans were purchased (along with an adjustable electronic sensor switch) and I carefully made the brackets from angle steel (I strongly disagree with mounting them directly to the radiator core), the whole lot installed with a lot of care (all bee's dick clearances) and then we headed off for an 8-day trip culminating in taking part in the 2013 Bay to Birdwood Classic. A pic of the Beddy is on the ABC website here, and another good pic at the start is here.

It did the whole 2500km well, but on a number of occasions got a lot hotter then I'd like - climbing the endless Adelaide Hills freeway, and driving home with 80km/h tailwinds seriously impeding the entry of any air through the radiator.

On getting home I decided to make some changes. Not only is the standard radiator grille ridiculously constrictive, but as everyone knows the front chassis crossmember and even the standard (early type) bracket for the bonnet latch stop a lot of air. as if that isn't enough, any air that does come in the front would simply take the path of least resistance, around the two sides and over the top os the radiator.

The grille was removed, and another sacrificial grille was carefully cut to vastly open up the intake area. The huge differences can be seen here.

Then, using fabric reinforced rubber sheeting I made flexible panels that blanked off the open areas to each side of the radiator (leaving entry points for the heater air intake and a hose that feeds cold air to my air filter inlet), and importantly across the whole top area which folds into the grille panel when fitted and seals it all off. All air hitting the grille simply HAS to go through the radiator (as well as heater and induction inlets as described). Additionally, rather than cut the front chassis crossmember and the main bar of the bullbar, I fashioned a flexible scoop from the same rubber material which scoops air from well under the bullbar bottom bar and feeds it directly into the bottom section of the radiator through the bottom panel opening. I'll try to get some more detailed photos of this in future, but you may be able to make it out in the two photos of the finished product below.

The results have been astounding! On a recent 220km trip in quite warm conditions, the thermo fans didn't have to come on once, so great is the ram air flow through the radiator. Temp stays steadily where the 82 degree high-flow thermostat allows it to be.

A great side-effect of discarding the engine driven fan is noticeably better fuel economy and power, and a much, much quieter cabin at cruising speeds!

The grille, by the way, I simply made using leftover aluminium J mold from the camper body (it's the edge moulding). I reckon it looks pretty damn good!

Cheers to all,


PS feel free to see many other pics and follow other links before and during restoration of our Bedford Dolphin camper here.

Electrics, Audio and Security / sender unit ohms - 1978 CF
« on: June 20, 2013, 06:23:43 PM »
Hello all. I've trolled the forums, but can't find an answer.

My '73 CF has a '78 dash fitted (which looks a little different from the '73 I replaced, but I assume the gauge mechanisms are much the same), but recently the temp guage has started to act erratically, reading occasionally (and suddenly) extremely high before settling down again.

I doubt it's the voltage regulator on the dash, as the fuel gauge stays constant.

If I take out the sender and give it a whack it settles down for a while, but obviously this won't be a long-term fix.

I removed the Holden sender from a head I had lying around, but when I fit it the gauge instantly reads hot (in the red).

Measuring resistance with an ohmmeter I discovered the Holden one reads about 270 ohms at room temp, while the erratic original measures about 1300 ohms (1.3 kilohms) when operating correctly.

At 1.3 kilohms the guage is accurate, coming up to near half before the thermostat opens, then settling down to about 1/3 for normal running. From past experience I also know it goes into the red when things are really hot and bothered under the bonnet.

So, counter to all the advice I've read in the forum so far, the Holden senders won't suit - they're all around 300 ohms or less.

Has anyone experienced the same thing, and know where I can source a sender that is around 1.3 kilohms cold? Maybe Smiths rather than VDO? The only markings on the 'proper' sender indicate it was made in the UK, and has the code AC4751 (possibly 4761) on it.

Any guidance appreciated.

Members Rides / The Dolphin Bedford camper back on the road!
« on: December 08, 2012, 10:32:06 PM »

After what started as a bit of a tidy-up of the exterior of 'Dolph', my 1974 CF camper with its original Dandenong (Vic) Dolphin camper body is finally on the road again. As with all these things, the job ended up a LOT bigger than fist anticipated, and turned into virtually a full restoration.

I'll soon take detailed photographs of the full interior and exterior, but those interested can see some shots taken before the project began, and during the work, by clicking here.

It's good to be back on the road!



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