BUGA Community
General Category => Members Rides => Topic started by: vuuup on August 19, 2013, 08:47:35 AM
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being busy!
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strip show
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finding bog
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bog bog bog
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last drive... a bit windy without the windscreen
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bye bye engine
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layers and layers
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off to blasters
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bare metal
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now for the rust repairs
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testing new bonnet on the other beddy.
primer.
new floor panels.
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lots of welding to be done.
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cleaning, repairing, and fabricating all the small parts take the longest!
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The roll of toilet paper on the table is for............
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looking good and lots of work getting done. whats the time frame/goal?
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looking good vuuup!
what colour is the big girl going to be? ;D
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Great work, lovin it!!!
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ah yes the multipurpose absorbent paper roll... a must for any workshop ;D my time frame is asap... the paints going on in the next 1-2 weeks then just have to put her back together. the paint is a flat olive army green with flat black lines.
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there is a few hold ups like cracks in the control arms, finding an orignal beaver panel, and money :(
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When you say Beaver Panel, what part is that exactly?
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Rear valance.
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rear number plate panel, the one on there is in good condition but i like the shape of the original one better.
Has anyone had experience repairing the control arms? would it just require a weld and some how add extra strength to prevent future cracks. have seen a lot of beddys with cracks in the same place.
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I think you would be better off sauceing some good ones Someone on here should have some
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Hey Restoreid, with gear like this could you get new ones made up. Reason i ask is, when we were doing my power steering, i had new tie rods made up, they are twice as strong as the original factory ones, so could you do the same with these.
George.
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I have a NOS valance panel - never used - that i purchased from England. I got a few parts at the same time, i was going to use it but turns out mine is not that bad, its yours for $200 if you want it.
Mezz
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Hey George Anything is possible I have seen tubula ones for hotrods but they are fairly lightweight I have studdied the beddie ones & they are fairly sturdy I dont know why they crack They could be welded but would prob crack alongside the weld again They could be strengthend easly enough but would have to be checked by an engineer & that would be a pain when a good one would doo the job I would love to know why they crack doesnt seem to be a reason There should be heaps of front ends laying around they shouldnt rust out just get surfurs rust Ben should have hundreds where is he these days hasnt been on here must be in jail haha
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Ben's high on fibreglass fumes all the time... ;)
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I had a similar problem. I simply drilled a hole at the end of the crack and grooved the crack and had it welded up plus with some cross ribbing.
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Based on all that info, i would conclude that the problem is the metal, maybe being the 70s, they may not of used a toughened steel. ????????? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ;) ;D
george
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hi mezz, sounds good got any photos?
i have got some other control arms but they do look like they have super micro hair line cracks, and i have the duel wheel lwb carrying extra weight so it may be more prone to cracking again. its probably braking pressure pushing the wheels back and causing pressure on that week point. thinking i might drill, groove, weld, and weld a support plat on, if i weld along and not across (like on chassis welds) it should never crack again.
also i will be getting rid of heaps of spears soon like 3 dashs, wiring loom, 2 bonnets, 1 barn door, cargo and 2 barn doors good for repairs, plus bits and pieces. all has to go so make an offer. will post up in the sell section soon. its all in brunswick vic.
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hey vanwolf, whats cross ribbing?
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After welding the grooved crack I ground a piece of the weld flat and I then welded a small piece of steel 5mm x 20mm at 900 across the original weld. Like a gusset.
Cheers.
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sounds like a good idea, has it held up and do you have a photo?
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Have assembled the front end with engine and gearbox. Working on rusty windscreen surround.
Will post pics when I put it together.
Cheers,
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thanks.
grill mod
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had very worn out hinges, so this was a solution.
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used 10mm sleeves of masonry bolts, and 8mm masonry bolt as pins. should be cheap if i need to re-sleeve ever again
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and a bit off a taper and some washers... done. was going to recess the bolt but i am building a rat rod!
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swivel bases, brackets, and hinges
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Vuuup,
Nice work!!! :) :) :) :) :) :)
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just finished reconditioning steering rack.
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some panels painted and the front beaten back to shape
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just popped the engine out of my other beddy as the compression was low and changing it over for my other 173 which runs strong.
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thought might as well rebuild the cross member
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all rebuilt and ready to be put back in.
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noticed my cross member for the project van is bent as. can see the right side is got more angle. going to need a other one!
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Why not use the other one from the donor beddie?
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too good to scrap and i did not not need any other parts from her, so i have fixed her up and almost road worthy just needs the gearbox and service the brakes. but going have to sell her to pay the bills. i have rebuilt whole front end (every thing) and put in a 173 that was reconditioned a few years back.
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your castor arms should be able to take the twist out of it
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good idea but its been bashed up quite severely from the upper spring seat, so much so that cant even get close to a good camber and its mess up the caster too. >:(
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getting all sealed up with por15
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cheers mezzmo for the rear valance panel
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Beaver panel.
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feels good getting rid of all that rust.
ok ok beaver panel
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;D ;D ;D ;D