BUGA Community
Technical => Maintenance => Topic started by: Postie Bob on August 05, 2013, 04:49:01 PM
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I`m up to the `cooling system` stage of my rebuild so I have a couple of Q,s .
I replaced the hose from the water pump to the cab heater . There was a brass thingy fitted in the hose ( see picture... I hope :) ) .
I couldn`t see any reason for it being there so I left it out . Now when I run the engine up to when the thermostat opens I loose about a 1/2 litre of coolant from the rad overflow outlet.
I`m wondering if the brass thing has anything to do with it??
With the cab heater higher than the radiator cap , what stops the coolant overflowing when the cap is removed ? Should there be a non-return valve in there somewhere? Is that what the brass things for? I can`t see how it would work!! .
My radiator needs replacing ( no leaks but no fins either ) . Being on a `limited budget` are those alloy ebay rads a wise investment?
Another Q..... My temp gauge doesn`t seem to be working . If I earth the wire that connects to the sender unit the temp needle flicks over to the right . Does this mean a new sender unit is needed?
While I`m on gauges.... my fuel gauge goes straight to full when the ignition is turned on and there`s little juice in the tank. Where do I start looking for the prob?
(http://s452.photobucket.com/user/bobnshirl_bucket/media/DSCF1238.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0)
Any assist , much appreciated.
Cheers, Bob.
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I`m still trying to get my head around `insert picture` >:( >:( >:( .
Hopefully someone knows what I`m trying to say :) .
(http://)http://s452.photobucket.com/user/bobnshirl_bucket/media/DSCF1238.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 (http://s452.photobucket.com/user/bobnshirl_bucket/media/DSCF1238.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0)
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(http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq250/bobnshirl_bucket/DSCF1238.jpg)
there you go, just add the [IMG] tag from photobucket
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Not sure what it is, but looks like it has seen better days, but also looks like it plays an important role, would obtain one in better cond and put it back in ( if it is stock issue ), it's there for a reason....
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Just looks like something bodgy someones used
To join 2 short hoses to get the right length to me.
I cant see the point of it, unless its to restrict the flow.
Try get a better radiator Asap, as the finns have a big part in the cooling
Of the water, pay to get a new water pump if yours is old or sus.
Summers on its way so unless you want overheating issues id get it sorted
Better to be safe than sorry n on the side of the road with lots of steam...
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Hey guys that thing is actually a heater tap !! the barb end on the left is suposed to slide over the flute end (far left) the flange at the end of the flute should have an "O" ring in it . you just pull/push the hoses to operate ;) Cheers Neil
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knew It looked kind of important... :D
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Hi Postie Bob, in reply to "With the cab heater higher than the radiator cap , what stops the coolant overflowing when the cap is removed ? ", think of it like this....... if you get a bottle of water, take off the cap and turn it upside down into a bucket of water (with the neck just below the water level. that is what your radiator/heater is doing. As for the flow when the thermostat opens..... my guess is air is in the system.
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Another Q..... My temp gauge doesn`t seem to be working . If I earth the wire that connects to the sender unit the temp needle flicks over to the right . Does this mean a new sender unit is needed?
While I`m on gauges.... my fuel gauge goes straight to full when the ignition is turned on and there`s little juice in the tank. Where do I start looking for the prob?
First up you did the right thing with the temp gauge. Your result would indicate the sender on the engine is knackered! If you have access to a variable resistor, say a dash light dimmer, connect it to the wire and to earth and vary it and you should see the gauge change.
Same deal for the fuel gauge: Disconnect it and see what it does, connect it to ground and see what it does. If at any stage it moves off full, replace the sender in the tank.
In both these cases, the likely cause of these faults will be in the sender units. It makes sense, they are subject to a harsher environment with heat, fuel, vibration etc. This is not to say that gauges don't fail, coz they do. But always the most likely scenario will be the sender units.
Good luck
BeerBeddy
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Thanks for all the input fella`s.
The reason for the `mystery brass thing` must have been to shut off the heat `cos the tap on my heater has locked up solid in the `on` position.
Is one of these radiators the way to go?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280952643257?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280952643257?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
Should the radiator have some sort of rubber mounting? At the moment mine is bolted straight to the frame . Just a bit concerned that vibration might kill my new one :-\ .
Cheers, Bob.
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Nah just bolt it in. That's the way they made them. If you intend to go to aluminium/plastic type radiator, then you will want to look at some mounting insulation.
Beerbeddy