BUGA Community
Website => Old BUGA site posts => Topic started by: Warren on May 27, 2011, 09:28:59 PM
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ASON
Member
Posts : 48
Location : Semaphore S.A.
My Body
Just thought I should post a message seen as nobody else has yet on bodys,
well my beddys got its fair share of cancer and thats been my main concern at the moment as winter is upon us.
The last few weeks I have been angle grinding and sanding out the water channels on the roof and over the last couple of days I finaly slappet a heap of fibreglass in the holes and started molding and sanding the channels back to shape.
I read a story on BUGA about someone filling in the channel and thought this would be a good thing to think about. But as this chap also wrote that he would NEVER do this again.
I now do agree.
After filling in the holes with fibreglass I gave this a try on about 80cm of channel, I used almost a whole pot of bog and spent about 2 hours trying to sand it back to a reasonable finish. BUGA that, to much work and to much bog.
So all I have done is smeared the channel with a layer of fibreglass then used a piece of wooden dowl wrapped in sandpaper to keep the contour of the channel, filled any low spots with bog and sanded back ready for painting.
If your water channlels are in good condition then you are one of the lucky ones, but if not I recomend you repair any cancer as soon as you see it and give it a good coat of rust paint.
I have found a rust paint that is just amazing, its called POR 15. After the undercoat and top coats are applied it sets like powder coating, stoping any air or moisture getting to the metall, which is what causes rust.
Now this product is rather expensive at $66 a litre for undercoat and a tad more for top coat, but if you are doing something like the water channels I highly recomend it as you only want to work on these channels once, if at all.
Anyhow this should get the ball rolling.
CHEERS to all
JASON
21 Mar 2004 @ 11:38
Big Mark
Member
Posts : 8
Location : Melbourne Victoria
drip rails
Text Text Gidday I'm just replying to Jasons Message I done mine in much the same way but with mine as soon as I touched the drip rail with the grinder it was that bad so I used renforced fiberglass to reshape the rail
Also what I done was to fill up the cutouts in the rail you know the ones to release the water and I cut slots in the bottom of the rail where the original water drains were
I have found that this is a lot better the water doesn't sit in the rail at all
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04 Apr 2004 @ 17:12
Brad Rose
Member
Posts : 30
Location : Beaumaris, Melbourne
My baby also was plauged with the dreaded cancer, so much that I decided to remove one whole side of the gutter rail, and replace it.
I did this by firts cutting all along the drivers side removing the gutter rail.
I then had to get metall made up into various shapes, and lengeths. Once I was happy with what I had, a local car restorer welded them in for me.
I have since been bogging, sanding, bogging, sanding, till now when the rail is in, looking good and just around the corner from being hi-filled. If any one out there need to know how I did it and what shapes were used, just let us know.
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brad rose backyard_prod@yahoo.com.au
18 Apr 2004 @ 02:51
jabbs
Member
Posts : 27
Location : sydney down under cancer
hi dude
i know its been a while since someone posted here but help is need.
i wouldnt mind knowing how you fixed yours up, i started cutting out the gutters from bout half way up the final outer curve and filling it in with bogg, i am nearly finished but a mechanic freind of mine said that a mecha will pick that out in a minute and he will put a magnet up to it and instantly find out that it is filled with bogg. this issue has got me $hiting my pants. i might not be able to get me beddy to pass rego.
09 Feb 2005 @ 00:31
Marty
Member
Posts : 68
Location : north coast
rust n bog
g/day Jason , ive had a bit of rust 2 fix in my time, and have found that removing the rust with an air needle gun, the 1 they use 2 deslag big diameter stick welds, is a really good fast way 2 get rid of the dredded red stuff and it doesent remove any steel at all, then i use rust converter, or similar to stop future rust comming back, then i mix fiberglass resin with babypowder to make a bog, that is water risistant, add some catlyst thats the stuff that makes the resin go hard when fiberglassing, and then sanded , primed then painted, then put heaps of fish oil on the inside of the pannel, the rust has a hard time comming back,. see the water cant get to the steel, its worked great 4 me for years now. as the standard bog u get from car accessory shops acts like a sponge when it gets wet then starts rusting straigt away. how many times have we all seen big lumps of bog come out of cars when the rust deconnects it from the pannel,. hope this helps anyone with future rust problems,. p.s. sorry 4 previous spelling errors.
cheers Marty
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