BUGA Community
Technical => Driveline => Diffs => Topic started by: obsession on March 19, 2010, 06:21:40 PM
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i rang a company today that do the diff conversions he said that if i took the standard bedy diff into him and left it for a couple of weeks it would cost $1600.00 and that hed do it inbetween other jobs then just refit it myself.
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the guy here that used to do them put XA Falcon centres in and resplined the bedford axles.
so the only bedford bits were the axle tubes and axles
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hey craig, what are you doing to your diff, conversion wise ?
George.
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323 falcon center bedford axles and he broaches the side gears .
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have any luck with bedford bearings craig?
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not yet.
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I have a bedford diff with the borg warner conversion already done, needs a new centre (goes but whines) and the usual bits and pieces handbrake cables are sticking, reckon the slave cylinders need replacing, standard beddie stud pattern .... I'm in North Ringwood if any one interested or I'll leave it collecting dust in the garage ;)
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have any luck with bedford bearings craig?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Rear-Wheel-bearing-kit-for-Bedford-CF-Sherpa-QWB607_W0QQitemZ350299177970QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVehicleParts_SM?hash=item518f7543f2 (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Rear-Wheel-bearing-kit-for-Bedford-CF-Sherpa-QWB607_W0QQitemZ350299177970QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVehicleParts_SM?hash=item518f7543f2)
http://www.buga.com.au/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=2&topic=1169.0 (http://www.buga.com.au/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=2&topic=1169.0)
$1600 is not too expensive,
i was charged more and i provided the brooched planetary gears (i think thats what they were)
While you are at it you can get the axles and hubs drilled to HQ if you are putting discs on the front
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just a quick Question.. i've done the diff change over & now the speedo is out.. any way to fix it ???
i've put in a cresta 3.4:1
thanks
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LS120 if ur runnin a standard bedford speedo there is an adjuster on it but it means pulling the dash 2 pieces 2 get to it. its on the side of the speedo gauge itself.
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cool thanks Marty will look for it.
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here,s 2 pictures, showing the adjustment from 1 extream to the other ,
its kinda like the adjustment on an old clock,
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll265/marty23121961/Picture-1.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll265/marty23121961/Picture989.jpg)
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Isn't that adjustment more for altering the set point of the speedo? If you want your speedo to read accurately you are going to to have to alter the gearing on the end of the speedo cable where it fits into the gearbox. There are also some outfits that can make you a little geared box that you can fit between the gearbox and the speedometer that will change the ratio so it will read correctly.
This outfit should be able to help. Don't know of any locally.
http://www.robinsoninstruments.co.nz/ (http://www.robinsoninstruments.co.nz/)
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Rogue is right , u will need 2 change the gearbox cog to the right colour one, the adjustment is just 2 fine tune the speedo.
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just did a test with my cordless and a speedo cable,
far out there is 50kms/ph of adjustment there. witch makes sence as the adjuster turns about a quarter of the circumference of the speedo gauge. :)
i would have thought there might be 20kms/ph max but blew me away that there was 50kms/hr
be a lot easier changeing the cog as the whole dash needs pulling apart 2 get 2 the adjuster,
(bloody bedford designers) what were they thinking when they did that? ???
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll265/marty23121961/P1025156.jpg)
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LS120, if you are running the 3 speed Trimatic, you change the cog in the auto where the speedo cable fits, to a white one, if I remember right, I did this and I know it's ok because before I took it of the road I was clocked at a 150km on the open road and issured a ticked for this speed I tried to tell the cop that a bedford could not reach this kind of speed, but for some reason he still gave me the ticket......... >:(
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far out, ive had my beddy SWB 202red 4 speed aussie, borgwarner diff up 2 130kms an hour but she wasnt likeing it 1 bit so i stick 2 110kms
u got a V8 Baz? n what was ur speedo showing when he booked u for 150?
p.s. i stick 2 the speed limits if its 60 i do 60, 80 i do 80, 110 i do 110 was just testing her out when i reached 130
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ledgend marty!!
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:o! I been hyjacked!! lol
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haha, good on ya ben, hope ur gettin better, ur banned from spinning things, ;D 2. lol
hey craig its better than being jackedhigh, :D
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Booked for 150km, speedo showing from what I can recall was 155km, fully worked 202 Red, trimatic with overdrive, cresta 3.5 rear end. The overdrive being the main reason it can pull 150km no probs, only a little shaking in the van.
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Hey Bas NZ
Are those overdrives hard to get in NZ I have had no luck trying to chase one down in AUS, any contact phone numbers please
Cheers
Joe
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far out, we only alloud 2 do 110kms/ph over here.
im stickin to 80 to 100kms its safer, lol,
plus betty the beddy will like it 2, :D
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Hey Bas, I'm after one too - overdrive unit that is, and 3.5 gears .....
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count me in too - if any available or group buy etc.
overdrive and gears - please
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i would be intersted in one too depending on cost
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me too :)
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I'm not. :P
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be handy for fuel economy, cruise on less revs thus less fuel consumption.
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I found that an overdrive improved fuel economy marginally depending on diff ratio in the first place. I had a 2.75 ratio 9" added an overdrive then changed diff to 3.5 & ended up with the same economy ( overdrive gave me 5% improvement only over no overdrive). The biggest factor is the frontal area & weight of the van. Swapping the holden six for a 350 chev only dropped my consumption by 6% but I put this down to all the drive train & motor adding 250kg to the weight of my van.The biggest advantage of an overdrive is lower engine revs & makes it a lot quieter & prolongs the life of the motor.
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yea the diff makes alot of diffrance. i now get 80km @ 2000 rpm not 3000rpm & get 100km @ 2600 rpm with the 202 standard Bedford 4speed & cresta diff (3.45:1)
i'm happy for now.. but the clutch is very heavy so may have to look at somthing there..
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go hydrolic clutch, will be easy as to depress then
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Rocket
Are you NZ or AUS
Joe
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Thanks marty.. any info on doing the clutch mod's?? and what i need.
thanks
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rocket is in aus..
cheers
ben
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Thanks marty.. any info on doing the clutch mod's?? and what i need.
thanks
The heavy clutch issue can be adressed with out going to the hydrolic clutch path by ensuring that:
1: The firewall where the clutch cable goes through is not cracked and causing side loads on the cable, mine was cracked and i welded the crack and then a large flat washer over the area - no problems since.
2: The actuator arm pivot is adjusted so that the actuator arm is at least sqaure to the thrust bearing (slightly over squre is better).
3: The actuator arm pins have enough surface area in contact with the thrust bearing to stop the arm from twisting and binding on the thrust bearings.
I did this over 4 years ago after putting up with a heavy clutch and breaking 3 cables. Now I still have a light clutch and an unbroken cable. Simple and cheap to fix once you know what to look for.
Warren
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Hi Warren...When i was cleaning down the the motor and gearbox of my little van ,i found out that the linkages that operate the clutch were all worn really bad. So i welded up the holes that had worn to a oval shape and put in some washers to make it all tight again, but found out that the clutch now is now a bit stiff. I think that i will try ajusting it again. What do you think.? :-\
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JohnO
Is your set up a leverage type of system ? on mine the clutch cable connects directly to the actuator arm, with an adjuster block in a lug on the bell housing.
I think the older vans had a sort of cable to a lever with mechanical advantage to the actuator.
I've only seen one in passing but they looked flimsy and prone to wear.
If you welded up the holes, what did you use to make them round ? did you re-drill them or just file them, if the holes are out of round they may cause binding, also if they are tight they may not allow correct rotation of the pins.
Using washers as shims should be alright, but once again may cause some binding if not enough clearance is left.
Warren
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yeah LS120, im going 2 do the same conversion on my van soon.
are u runnin a 4speed australian g/box?
any other kind of box im unsure but it shouldnt be 2 hard to engineer up the brackets if ur mechanically minded.
if so u will need items out of an EH - hr holden (1964- 67 Australian model holden)
1/ master cylinder that bolts 2 the fire wall
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HOLDEN-EH-HR-DISC-BRAKE-CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-VH40_W0QQitemZ300406044269QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item45f198766d (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HOLDEN-EH-HR-DISC-BRAKE-CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-VH40_W0QQitemZ300406044269QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item45f198766d)
2/ slave cylinder that bolts 2 the 3speed or 4 speed gearbox
3/ slave cylinder bracket.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/holden-clutch-slave-cylinder-eh-ej-hd-hr-4-spd-gearbox_W0QQitemZ390068629834QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5ad1e6f14a (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/holden-clutch-slave-cylinder-eh-ej-hd-hr-4-spd-gearbox_W0QQitemZ390068629834QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5ad1e6f14a)
4/ and the hydrolic pipeing made up 2 suit.
u will need 2 modify the beddy firewall 2 suit the master cylinder,
the holes are already cast into the alluminium bellhousing 2 suit the slave cylinder,
the hydrolic pipeing can be made by any brake or hydrolic shop.
once u have done this conversion ull wish ud done it years ago,lol....
cheers marty
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I will have to take a pic so you can point me in the right direction buddy. I welded up the holes just enough to get them round, then filed them slowly to get them right . I also replaced the little hinge pins that connect the linkages together (that you then put a split pin through the end) ;)
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Hi Marty.. i'm looking at somthing this weekend.. surjested by my local garage guy, hes worked on beddys for years..
will keep ya all informed.
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cool , hope it works out good for you,
yeah dont forget 2 let us know?
cheers marty
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yea the diff makes alot of diffrance. i now get 80km @ 2000 rpm not 3000rpm & get 100km @ 2600 rpm with the 202 standard Bedford 4speed & cresta diff (3.45:1)
i'm happy for now.. but the clutch is very heavy so may have to look at somthing there..
Gday,
Ive inherited my late fathers 76 CF Motorhome, its a long wheelbase dual rears with 202 motor and 4 speed manual
He had a ford 9" diff conversion and changed the ratio to 4.1:1 but she runs out of puff on the highway at 90KM/h
its running 14 inch tyres and has extractors for more power.
Would changing the ratio to 3.5:1 or lower get me similar results to your camper?
My camper is fiberglass 10 feet wide 21 ft long and nearly 9 foot high so she pushes a fair bit of wind and weighs about 3.5 tonnes
any ideas on how to make her keep up with the traffic on the motorway?
thanks
Ian from Brisbane.
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change it to a 3:23
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You might have trouble if you change the diff ratio with the 202 hauling that kind of weight especially with the wind resistance getting up to 100k. You might cruise at a better speed but it'll take you a long time getting there and your trans won't like you one bit either. I rather think that if you want any better performance out of it you are going to need to consider an engine transplant along with a new diff ratio.
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Ian, stay with the 4.1 ratio, or even look at putting it back to the bedord lowest ratio at 5.1 and put in a 5 Speed, good low down power and 5 gear for the open road. The cheapest way by far. I run a fully worked 202 and 3 speed Trimatic with overdrive and low diff ratio in my Camper that sits on 2-3 tone. Magic is all I can Say, but ofcourse Rouge is right, if you don't mind spending the money a transplant is the go, or the above if you don't want to spend that much but get a little more power. Cheers, good luck.
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Ian, stay with the 4.1 ratio, or even look at putting it back to the bedord lowest ratio at 5.1 and put in a 5 Speed, good low down power and 5 gear for the open road. The cheapest way by far. I run a fully worked 202 and 3 speed Trimatic with overdrive and low diff ratio in my Camper that sits on 2-3 tone. Magic is all I can Say, but ofcourse Rouge is right, if you don't mind spending the money a transplant is the go, or the above if you don't want to spend that much but get a little more power. Cheers, good luck.
Sorry for taking so long to respond, I've been on the road as part of my work and this is the first opportunity to reply.
Im not wanting to change the motor, cause its only done 12k since a total rebuild my Dad did on her and she runs really sweet.
Reading over some correspondence he had a bit of a fallout with the crowd that did the diff conversion and they talked him into the 9" 4:1:1 and he traded in the origonal 3.5:1 diff but he was upset that he was not getting the 100KMPH + hiway speed ( Having driven her from Cairns to Brisbane, I know the fustration of having all the traffic backed up behind you cause you cant keep up with the speed limit and keep having to pull over cause you cant get the old girl past 80 kmh on the 110 freeway.)
If I leave the diff and the motor as they are but looked at swapping the gearbox for a supra 5 speed like the W59 with over drive around .8 and first gear 3.59:1 will that still be quick off the mark at the lights and pulling up hills, but give me the top speed on the hiway with out reving the guts out of her?
Im not very good at working out the ratios so any laymans help in understanding what I need would be appreciated.
Alternatively, if I put in a trimatic, auto box, which you seem so happy with for your van (and would mean my wife could share in the driving as she cant handle a a manual :-X) What set up would be required? Are all trimatics the same or would I need some specific model for my big heavy rig?
Im in Brisbane so where would I go looking for an auto box or the supra
Thanks in advance for your interest.
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The Trimatic is only 3 speed so you will still have the problem with top end. There is a Trimatic with a overdrive fitted so this would give you the top speed you require, but you would be very luck to find one, not sure even if you can get then in OZ. I have one in my van in NZ. So your best bet is to go for the 5 speed they are lower geared than the 3 and 4 speed boxs in the first 4 gears and the 5 gear will give you the top end you are looking for. The only problem you are going to have is the clutch set up it needs to be light on the foot for a smooth drive, some of the guys on Buga have over come this problem I think, so have a talk to them. Cheers
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i have never seen a trimatic overdrive here in aus.. and only herd about them on here from you new zealand blokes:)
ben