cam shaft replacing

[MaTTe]

hey mate, thats not good news.
thats another good reason to brace the puller while using it..

You can try belting the gear to loosen it using a big socket and a gimpy
or you can heat it, but we've never needed to..

Just make sure the puller is even on both bolts, and tighten it slowly so you can make sure it isn't twisting out of shape.

With the cam timing you really need to know where it is, you dont have to chase the minor increases, but something that will seem like buga all could be the difference between to motor running and not.

You need a dial gauge, and you need to know where your TDC is exactly. I guess you could have your TDC 'close enough' but it isn't wise

there's probably a thread with pictures on the net somewhere.. but i'll give you a basic run down.

You'll need: a dial gauge, a degree chart(advisable) and the spec sheet for the cam

Put the dial gauge base on the block somewhere flat that wont be affected by the piston coming up (standard blocks aren't usually a problem because the pistons aren't usually higher than the top of the block)
Get the number 1 piston somewhere near the top of it's travel.
Then get the gauge setup so the needle is touching the top of the piston square, slightly compressed, but with plenty of room to move either way.
Zero the dial gauge.
Move the crank clockwise(we use customised tools, you may need to use a big screwdriver to turn the flywheel, brace against a dowell and put the screwdriver in the teeth of the ringgear)
See if the dial value has gone up or down, if it goes up take it as high as you can before it goes down, then stop and zero the dial gauge.
If it went down initially, then turn counter clockwise until the dial gauge has gone as high as possible before going down, then zero the gauge.

Now you want to make sure it is central, move it counter clockwise, and clockwise 10thou each way to make sure you are central.

Now what we do is drill through the flywheel into the block, so we can easily and quickly check that we are at TDC using a welding rod of the right size, or a 3/8 gutter bolt
You can skip the above step, but it's still wise..

Now you know where your TDC is.


Now on the sheet with the cam it should say that it is setup for 36thou or something similar and will give you other numbers to check you've done it right.

You'll need:
the crank gear off,
the cam in (best to have the mounting plate done up nice and tight),
a lifter in,
a pushrod with a spike that'll fit into the needle of the dial gauge(you can shape soem solder, or a welding rod so it slides into the pushrod and has a point at the other end),
best to have a degree chart,
and if you drilled the block put the bolt in as it'll keep your TDC accurate,
dial gauge,
and your key in the keyway on the crank.

put in your key, setup the dial gauge on top of the block so not affected by the piston with the needle on the top of the pushrod. If the cam says 36thou, zero the dial gauge, then you need to turn the cam until the gauge reads 36thou.

Now you need to find a keyway that will line up with the crank and the camshaft. This is where you'll realise how much a small amount can GREATLY affect the cam, if you have to force the cam to get the teeth to line up, you'll see it jump to 50thou or something similarly extreme.

Find a tooth that will keep it at 36thou, or within 2 or 3 thou of it if you can get it exactly (note: when i say 36thou, remember you need to use the figure listed on the cam sheet)

When you've got it right, belt the gear on,
If you have a degree chart follow the cam sheet and see if the numbers match.

If they do, put the rest of the motor together and enjoy..

If i've forgotten anything, feel free to correct me.

[able]

victory is mine.

i lent this home made puller from a worker at johnny dyno's.


looks very home made and is actually made out of scrap. pulled the timing gear off with about as much effort as unscrewing a stiff bolt. utterly amazing what the right tool can do. i drilled out the holes to 8mm and taped them with a 3/4 tap. time all up from getting home with the gear... about 5 min including tapping.

i gave him three Carlton longnecks for his kindness and everyone's happy.

thanks for the above info matte. if im having trouble when im starting it up (god knows when with my money flow) then yours is the post ill be gunning for.

 

[MaTTe]

Good to hear you got the gear off, right tool for the job makes life easy. And funnily enough, it's usually the homemade 'rough as guts' tools that out live and out perform the expensive store bought items.

Alot of tools my grandad has made to suit a purpose have only just started coming out in the shops over the last 5 years or so..

anyway, good luck with the build

[Merlin]

Hey Able is ole Johnny still running Geelong Dyno Centre ? I used to have a shop there and he used to do all my machinning .The mans a legend with motors if he is tell him I said G'Day (Im Gavins Brother)    Cheers Neil

[able]

yes he is. i will do that Merlin. he's doing my 173 head and i order all my parts through him.


and yes it still takes up to half a hour before you get served.

[Merlin]

half an hour !!?? he has improved i could spend up to three hours there but he had me beat how he knew where everything was